Frank Norris
Now and
again in a spare moment I will take from a shelf one of my beautiful volumes of
the Library of America—not exactly at random but with a certain element of
caprice. It is never hard to find new
things that need and reward reading.
Recently I took down the volume of Frank Norris’s Novels and Essays. In
college I learned that Norris (1870-1902) was a “naturalist” and a
“muck-raker,” but as we never actually read him, that didn’t mean much. Years later I did take up The Octopus in a “social novel” binge
mainly centered on Dreiser. I just read Norris’s
first novel, Vandover and the Brute;
it turned out to be pretty good for a book written in a Harvard undergraduate
writing course. The setting is fin-de-siècle San Francisco—young men
about town. Its subject is moral
decay. To one anesthetized by
post-modernism, it is almost shocking in its moral clarity. Norris seems entirely unembarrassed to use
words like depravity, degeneracy, corruption, etc., and to analyze the sins of the flesh from a perspective
other than the merely quantitative.
It is,
however, a very minor aspect of the material culture described that is the
inspiration for this post: the carnivore
breakfast. Vandover and his pals
spend a good deal of time chowing down in various Frisco taverns and
bordellos. Standard evening snacks are large
platters of oysters and “Welsh rabbits”—neither Welsh nor rabbits, of course, but
a delivery system for scrumptious, cheesy calories devised by our ancestors before
the blessings of pizza came to the land--washed down with goodly quantities of
beer or champagne. But they regularly
start off their days with a huge chunk of quadruped flesh. The standard conversational gambit for chums
meeting up during the course of the day is a report on the avoirdupois of the
morning’s meat. The fourteen-ounce
beefsteak is apparently the favorite breakfast, though the odd chop or cutlet
will do in a pinch. Pork products—ham,
bacon, sausage—are for people on strict diets.
If you are
used of a morning to facing half a grapefruit, a few choice grains of granola,
or even a whole bowl of steel cut oats, the young carnivores of Frank Norris
may be a cause for alarm. But it was not
always thus.
In the
autumn of 1958 I sailed for Europe with a cohort of my fellow Rhodes
Scholars-elect. The ship was very grand,
a floating city block from the Upper East Side; and though we were in the
twilight of the Age of the Atlantic Crossing, everything about the arrangements
seemed specially designed to boggle the mind of a young man from the
sticks. The food, served up by an
abundance of waiters clad in bright, starchy white, was endless in its variety
and apparently inexhaustible in its quantity.
I was eager
for knowledge of the old culture I would soon be encountering. Someone had given me a light-hearted book
full of advice for Americans about to visit the Mother Country for the first
time. I cannot remember its title, and I
lost the book itself ages ago. Still one or two of
its gobbets of advice have stuck with me.
“It is quite easy to get three good meals a day in England,” said my
author, “so long as you eat three breakfasts.”
The gastronomic scene in the British Isles has long since undergone a
revolution, but in the late Fifties, if you happened to be taking most of your
meals in a college dining hall, the advice proved prescient.
While I never disdain the information
offered by textbooks, I try always to test theory with observed practice. I discovered on shipboard that the “full
English breakfast” invariably included—in addition to fried eggs, fried
mushrooms, fried tomatoes, and apparently deep
fried bread—both sausages and bacon, the bacon being of the genre usually
called “Canadian” on this side of the Atlantic.
There was among our fellow
passengers on the ship a middle-aged guy who struck me as the quintessence of
Britishness. He had a ruddy face adorned
with a large russet moustache. He was
never seen without a coat and tie, and rarely without a suit of coarse-threaded
tweed that looked about as thick as a Bokhara carpet and about as comfortable as
a wire brush. From his general demeanor
one sensed he had not gotten the memo about having lost India.
Excess being addictive I was
already by the fourth breakfast of the voyage looking for new worlds to
conquer. Eschewing the “full English
breakfast” I boldly ordered from the meaty sub-section of the huge menu kippered
herrings and something called
“Köningsberger Klopse”. How the waiter
could accept this order with a straight face astonishes me in retrospect, but
he did. The Klopse turned out to be
meatballs in a kind of caper-flavored gravy and could have on their own
constituted an ample evening meal. It’s
not the kind of dish that required a supplement, especially a supplement of
kippers.
Just as this breakfast was arriving
under its gleaming metal dome the Imperial tweeded gentleman whom I
mentioned earlier happened to be ushered in and seated at a nearby table in my
sight-line. We did not speak or even
acknowledge each others’ presence; yet we shared a Jamesian moment. I could not help noticing the slight recoil
on this man’s face when he saw what lay on the plates before me. He quickly recouped, averted his eyes, and
gave his own order to his own waiter.
The distance between us was not great; I could not help overhearing his order. “Please bring me a cup of tea,” he said. “And a bowl of corn flakes.”
